In the Mood for Yi Long

By Eve Wee-Ang 2023-07-27 14:58:01

A Modern Cantonese Fare

When I learnt that a modern Cantonese restaurant had opened at Donghu Road with designs inspired by Wong Kar Wai’s cult classic “In the Mood for Love” as well as the critically acclaimed movie, “The Grand Budapest Hotel”, my interest was piqued. Both films draw such beautiful inspiration from a long-gone era, so my colleagues and I felt compelled to get into character by dressing the part, for a truly immersive experience.

Adorned with qipaos and a fascinator, we stepped into Yi Long. The entrance of the restaurant is reminiscent of a hotel lobby with its walnut paneled concierge desk and a vintage phone that pays homage to the Wes Anderson film. We were led into the restaurant where we were transported into the Golden Age era where prosperity abounded. Spanning two floors linked by a curved staircase, Yi Long is lit by its generous windows overlooking French plane trees. Flower petal flooring hints of Southeast Asia tropical flora.

Helmed by Executive Chef Kwan Pok Meng who cut his teeth from a decade spent in Sydney, Australia and his hometown Kelantan, Malaysia, specializing in Chinese cuisine. A traditionalist at heart, Chef Kwan believes that modern Cantonese cuisine is a mix of culinary techniques and ingredients borrowed from the vast cultures and customs of China. Already, customers are returning for his signature dishes.

Foie Gras Sauce with Chinese Fried Dough are an East West fusion take on the French classic. Fresh homemade Chinese crullers spread with foie gras blended with Chaozhou-style seasoning, Shaoxing wine and scallions.

Roasted Crispy Suckling Pig with Crispy Skin is specially selected from Bama in Guangxi and roasted over charcoal fire. Enjoyed with Peking duck-style pancakes and its accompaniments but for the best experience, dip in some white sugar.

Sweet and Sour Pork with Pineapple is one of my favourite Cantonese dish. At Yi Long, fresh pineapples from Taiwan and 50/50 fat and lean ratio pork belly are selected. The sweet and sour sauce is made with the juices from hawthorn and pineapples.

Fujian Fried Rice with Assorted Seafood and Meat is an upscaled version of the traditional dish. Customers can look forward to a luxurious treat of premium ingredients like sea cucumber, fish maw, abalone, dried scallops, and asparagus drenched with a homemade abalone sauce.

The mark of a good Cantonese restaurant lies in its Dim Sum. Presented on a platter like four little packages of delights is Yi Long’s speciality dish. Take your pick from each Dim Sum that tantalize with different flavours from Boston lobster asparagus to fresh shrimps with truffle wild mushrooms and spinach scallops.

Yi Long’s well-curated wine list includes 157 selections from famous chateaus to niche boutiques. An in-house sommelier is on hand to help recommend the right pairings for an elevated dining experience.


Yi Long
Address: 5F, 20 Donghu Road, Xuhui District
Tel: 5489 3336